Thursday, May 14, 2015

Sterling Silver vs. Silver-Plated

Silver is a precious metal and valued third behind platinum and gold.  A list of all metals in order of value, with the highest first, goes like this:  platinum, gold, silver, bronze, brass, copper, pewter, and iron. Because silver is a valuable commodity, pieces made of silver were often melted to put food on the table during tough economic times.  Very old pieces are quite rare.

Sterling is a standard of silver fineness that means 92.5 percent pure silver and 7.5 percent mixed with copper to increase durability.  This standard was set by the English by an ordinance in 1300.  In 1477, a law was passed in London requiring the stamping of the leopard's head or crowned leopard's head on every piece f silver of the accepted standard.  In 1479, the use of the date letter was used, and finally the maker's mark.  The leopard's head was replaced in 1544 by the walking lion.

From 1697 to 1720, the standard for sterling was raised to 95 percent pure silver, and pieces meeting this new standard were stamped "Britannia."  Hallmarked pieces will be punched with three to five marks; sterling mark, maker's mark, year of manufacture, duty mark, town hallmark.  The European standard for sterling currently ranges from .800/.825 to .925.

Sterling production in the United States was not regulated as early,compared to England.  Most of the makers marked their silver with their names or initials and maybe an eagle's head.  By 1850, American silversmith were using their first initial and full last name and also adding a second punch to indicate the silver standard.  C stood for coin which is a little less than .925.  Or D for dollar and S for standard with both of these mean sterling.  Occasionally they would mark a piece sterling.  It wasn't until 1907 that  this acquired a legal definition in the United States and came into wide use among silversmiths.

Silver Plate is created when a base metal, usually nickel silver is coated with a layer of pure silver by electroplating.  It is sometimes marked "silver plate" and sometimes marked "EPNS" which stands for electro-plated nickel silver.  Usually this mark is found on flatware.

Silver-plated jewelry is not usually marked with anything.  Recently sliver-plated items have been found to be marked with .925 incorrectly.  Buyer beware!  Sometimes you'll find authentic gemstones set in these fakes.  

Sometimes plating can make a piece of jewelry look extremely shiney and may convince some that the sterling was just polished and is so bright and dazzling they believe it is genuine .925 quality when it is not.

Look for the .925 stamp.  You will need a magnifier for this.  Hold it in your hand to feel it.  The weight of the piece is also a clue.

  • For earrings you sometimes have to check the wire.  The part that goes through the ear.
  • Chains should have the mark close to or on the clasp.
  • Pendants may have mark on the backside or the interior of the bail.
  • Bracelets will usually be marked on the interior or on the clasp.
  • Rings will be marked somewhere on the interior of the band.
  • Sterling items will be heavier than plated items.
  • Sterling will be cooler to the touch.
  • Plated will rattle and have a tinny sound to earrings and pendant bails and wires when you shake it around and listen.
  • Sterling does have a distinctive smell and taste like that of a currency coin.  I'm not saying you should put in your mouth.  Use common sense for this test.
  • Sterling silver should often bend a bit since it is malleable.  Be careful not to damage it.
  • Silver plated is a lot harder and will not bend.