Georgian c1714 - 1830
*prepared by hand
*use of artificial substances began in this period such as:rhinestones & pastes (usually had foil backs) instead of diamonds
pinch beck (copper & zinc alloy) instead of gold
cut steel & marcasite instead of silver
*diamonds or subs were commonly rose cuts or flat
Queen Victoria reigned from 1837 until her death in 1901. Consequently, many pieces of jewelry can be referred to as Victorian. Keep in mind there is never a clear-cut line dividing these periods. Some styles and motifs continued to be popular for a longer period of time in some areas. Styles also tend to overlap. A style that was on its way out in England could be at its peak of popularity in the United States.
Victorian c1837-1901
*power-driven machines
*jewelry available for everyone, not just nobility
Image via Wikipedia*lucky charms symbols, hearts, flowers, birds, ivy, love knots, angels, babies, serpents
*jet, coral, human hair and seed pearls were all popular organic materials used*mourning or memorial jewelry had been popular for decades prior to Victoria's ascension to the throne, upon the death of Prince Albert, the entire British empire was thrown into 40 years of enforced gloom
*cameos, tiaras, lavalieres
Early Victorian c1837-1860
Popular Motifs:
Classical Greek and Roman designs
Gothic and medieval designs
Garter jewelry
Grapes (usually formed of seed pearls)
Vines and leaves
Eyes (eye miniatures)
Hands
Knots of all types
Serpents
Hearts
Materials:
Gold (all colors except white)
Pinch beck
Rolled gold
Gold electroplate (after 1841)
Jet
Gutta-percha
Bogwood or Bog Oak
Hair
Tortoise
Ivory
Aluminum (ater 1855)
Embellishments:
Stones often cut in cabochon
Amethyst
Citrine
Coral
Garnets
Paste
Ruby
Topaz
Pique
Mosaics
Cameos (stone, shell, lava, coral)
Bloodstone
Cairngorm
Dark blue enameling
Mid-Victorian c1860-1885
Popular Motifs:
Acorns
Amphorae
Anchor, heart, and cross (hope, love, and faith)
Beetles
Bells
Crosses
Etruscan motifs
Buckles
Fringes
Tassels
Monograms
Insects
Garter jewelry
Hearts
Serpents
Ram's head
Archaeological motif
Materials:
(see Early Victorian)
Bloomed Gold
Tiger Claws
Real Beetles
Amber
Embellishments:
(see Early Victorian)
All forms of enameling
Amethysts (sometimes incised with a flower motif)
Diamonds
Emeralds
Coral
Pearls
Sapphire
Turquoise
Cameos (done in amethyst, emerald, garnet, jasper, hematite, coral, agate, lava, and shell)
Intaglios
Lapis
Cornelian
Tourmaline
Spinel
Rock crystal
Aquamarine
Zircon (natural brown)
Demantoid garnets (after 1869)
Late Victorian and Edwardian c1885-1910
Officially Edward VII reigned from 1901-1910, but his influence was felt much earlier. Many Victorian motifs were reflections of his activities which included racing motifs and good luck motifs. During this period, clothing was lighter and softer than it had been in almost a hundred years. The jewelry also became lighter in scale. Dainty pieces such as the lavalier became popular.
Popular Motifs:
Clovers
Crescent and stars
"Cross-over" designs
Hearts (single and double)
Birds
Flowers
Horseshoes and other good luck signs
Moon and owl
Man in the moon
Shamrocks
Sporting
Bats
Insects
Materials:
Gold (multicolored)
Platinum
Silver
Oxidized silver
Copper
Rolled gold
Celluloid
Watch cock covers
Gun metal
Embellishments:
Opals
Moonstone
Diamonds
Pearls
Peridot
Sapphires
Topaz
Amber
Glass
Jet
Turquoise
Garnets
Mother of pearl
Aquamaroine
Crepe stone
Onyx
Amethyst
All forms of enameling
Edwardian c1901-1914
*lace translated into platinm and diamonds - is the phrase used to describe Edwardian jewelry
*sometimes lost or forgotten, sandwiched between two great periods, that being Art Nouveau and Art Deco
*jewelry of high society
*diamonds and platinum were essential in the development of an Edwardian piece of jewelry
*among the finest jewelry ever made
*"Negligee" pendant - two drops of unequal length hanging from a single stone or a thin chain
*"sautior" a long necklace consisting of pearls or a fine chain ending in a tassel, was made popular during the period
Arts and Crafts c1890-1914
Art Nouveau c1895-1917
For an in-depth look at this influential time in history from an authority, check out The Story of Art Nouveau. George Philip LeBourdais, takes the reader on a journey back in time. You'll be swept into a world experiencing an anticipated freedom from the heavy and rigid industrial style that had gone on too long according to many. A well deserved mention of Louis Comfort Tiffany's contributions was not overlooked. Provocative artwork displayed prominently, a detailed timeline along with a line up of the movement's leaders completes a well-rounded editorial. I would expect nothing less from Artsy (Magazine). Check it out.
*romantic "handcraft" movement
*influenced by Gothic Art Japanese Art
*dreamlike faces & figures, moons, moon like stones such as opals, pearls and moonstones
vines, flowers, peacocks, dragonflies, orchids, lilies and ferns
*enameling & iridescence were popular
*materials used were tortoiseshell, copper, ivory, horn, carved glass & shells
*delicate filigree settings
*pastel colors
Popular Motifs:
Female head
Serpents
Dragonflies
Interwoven, asynmetrical flowing lines
Flowers
Swans
Peacock
Bats
Materials:
Gold
Silver
Silver-plates
Gold-filled
Horn
Ivory
Tortoise
Embellishments:
Stones cut in cabochon
Opals
Moonstones
Pearls
Diamonds (usually small)
Pate de Verre
Glass
All forms of enameling
Rock crystal
Art Deco c1920-1935
*log pendants, bangle bracelets, cocktail rings
*after WWI the style changed to geometric, bold, sophisticated & architectural designs
*curves replaced by straight lines with chunky angular simplicity
*also used circles, cones & cylinders
*influenced by Russian ballet, Expressionism, Egyptian and Aztec art
*falcons, vultures & scarab motifs
*lapis lazuli & carnelian
*revived in 1960's
*semiprecious stones & precious gems were used together
Popular Motif:
Geometric lines
Abstract designs
Motifs denoting speed
Dramatic interplay of colors
Shimmery colors
Stylized floral motifs
Materials:
Platinum
White gold
Silver
White metal
Bakelite
Embellishments:
Emeralds
Ruby
Sapphire
Onyx
Diamonds
Rock crystal
Marcasites
Cornelian
Chrysoprase
Jade
Ivory
Retro c1935-1955
Popular Motifs:
Stylized flowers
Cones
Spacecraft motif
Bows
Ovals with bows
Stylized feathers
Cornucopia
Birds
Bold Polish curves
Materials:
Yellow, Green, Pink Gold (all often used in the same piece, after WWII Sterling Silver added to the mix)
Sterling Silver
Gold-filled
Gold-plated
Embellishments:
Rubies
Diamonds
Blue sapphires
Pearls
Faceted and cabochon cut stones often in the same piece
Aquamarines
Synthetic stones
Contemporary c1945-present
*after WWII new fluid, sculptured look
*from beautiful to garish
*hollywood stars became the trendsetters
*from the mid 1930's until the late 1940's became bigger and bolder than ever before with gemstones well over 100 carats, aquamarine, citrine, topaz, and synthetics became ever more popular
*silk knots reintroduced
*precious metal, enamel, gemstones
*tailored styles in the 1950's and 60's
*button covers introduced in 1970's
