3 Tests 2 Rules 3 Marks Solid Gold Or Plated?

In a perfect world you could trust everybody. Truth to be told, that's just not the case especially when it comes to money. Arm yourself with the knowledge needed to determine the authenticity of any piece of jewelry. You will never get scammed.

Rule #1  Real gold and silver are never magnetic.
Rule #2  Real gold and silver does not turn your skin green.

Test #1

Place the jewelry to be tested in a small stainless steel container. Drop a small amount of nitric acid on the item in a spot that is not obvious. Look for the presence of a reaction and it's color.

• reaction color is green, your metal is gold plated.
• reaction color is gold, your metal is brass or gold plated.
• reaction color is milky, your metal is gold plated over sterling 
• no reaction at all, you've got real gold.

Test #2

Bleach will not affect real gold. If it's fake the bleach will change the color of the metal it comes into contact with.  Always pay attention when using bleach. It is a strong colorless chemical that can cause damage to most surfaces.

Test #3

One more test to try is the scratch test In an inconspicuous place scratch item in question until you see the metal underneath. A scratch may not be required if corners show wear and reveal the metal underneath.


Item stamped with .417 is the equivalent to 10 K.
Item stamped with .585 is the equivalent to 14 K.
Item stamped with .750 is the equivalent to 18 K.

Clues For Dating Vintage Earrings Hallmark Mistakes Cost Money

Something to add to your detective toolbox. What the hell am I talking about? You'll see. Read on!

Helpful clues when determining the age of vintage earrings is knowing how they attached to the ears and when that attachment was invented.

               circa 1800 shepherd hook wire
               circa 1873 no name given for this style (hard to explain)
               circa 1882 kidney wire
               circa 1894 screw back (pierced)
               circa 1900 lever back
               circa 1909 screw back style #2 (piercing not necessary)
               circa 1929 post & butterfly
                                  circa 1934 spring clip better known as Clip On
                                  circa 1960 omega back

Earrings have a history way before what is listed above. Earrings have been worn by both men and women. Sometimes worn to reveal your status in the community or mark a specific accomplishment. Sometimes worn as a fashion accessory. The hair and clothing styles of the day often dictated the practicality of wearing earrings at all. 

With that being said, I should not have to tell you that it all comes down to your own personal style. Whether you choose to wear what is currently trending or prefer to be on the cutting edge, be yourself and the best you will shine too.

Mark found on jewelry: AK 14 k "It has nothing to do with gold plating" e-bay seller.

It was my understanding for a long time that AK 14 k stamped on jewelry from Turkey meant your item was gold-plated. I stand corrected. Further research has revealed the AK represents Atasay Kuyumculuk. This is a well known jewelry manufacturer in Turkey. They exported a lot of jewelry to the United States over the years. Nothing to do with gold-plating. They say the word "Turkey" is commonly included in the mark. For example: AK Turkey 14 kt.

AK is also the mark for the manufacturer, Armin Kurz, in Switzerland. The e-bay seller goes on to say that Armin Kurz only deals in 18 k gold jewelry. Here's a link to the conversation on ebay. The posters seem to know what they are talking about. The fact someone commented about the gold plating idea and got shot down helped to convince me.

What does the PL stand for in the marking 14 K PL? Platinum? Plated?

If you find this marking,14 K PL, don't mistake it for "plated" like I have. The "PL" actually stands for "plumb" or full weight. Instead of weighing 13.5 for instance, the item is the full weight at 14 K.

If you find this marking 14 K PL, don't mistake it for "plated" like I have. The "PL" actually stands for "plumb" or full weight. Instead of weighing 13.5 for instance, the item is the full weight at 14 K.

The lesson to be learned here is no matter how much you think you know, you should never stop learning and updating that knowledge.

Here's one more tip to keep you tuned in.

If you have a piece of silver jewelry marked with 925, you can be absolutely sure that it is not a native american piece of jewelry. They might not have used a 925 marking to represent silver, but the word "sterling" was used often by the native american. Good to know.

Formula Used For Scrap Gold Value

Did you know that scrap value for your gold is not just made up out of thin air. There is actually a formula for each gold content level. I am talking about the karats like 14 K or 10 K. The first thing you will need to find is the current value of gold. Kitco Spot Gold Page is reliable and here's a link..

31.1 grams = 1 troy ounce

Spot Gold price is for a troy ounce. 

18 K Spot Gold multiplied by 75% and then divided by 3.1 grams equals the value of the gold.

14 K Spot Gold multiplied by 58.3% and then divided by 3.1 grams equals the value of the gold.

10 K Spot Gold multiplied by 41.6% and then divided by 3.1 grams equals the value of the gold.

9 K Spot Gold multiplied by 37.5% and then divided by 3.1 grams equals the value of the gold.

This will give you the value per gram. All that will be left to do is weigh your gold in grams and multiply by the value. Pay attention to the decimal points when calculating.

If that looks to difficult for you, find a calculator for scrap gold offered by several sites on line. Here's a link to the one on the Kitco site.

The Kitco company has a couple of apps in the play store for calculating scrap gold value on the go.

Jewelry Marks From The Past You Need To Know

Markings on jewelry can be hard to decipher. Markings include facts about your item you need to know like gold content, who made it or whether or not its plated.  I think most people are familiar with the traditional 14 K means 14 karat gold. This format for gold content is easily recognized by most of the world. Marks that are forged on either side of the 14 K are not so easy to decipher. Oh no! I was thinking the P L stood for plated. Or was it platinum? Somebody is going to re-examine her jewelry inventory.

14 K P L  = 14 karat gold plumb (full) originated from a system that accepted 13.5 karat weight as 14 karat weight. Many jewelers would add the "P L"to inform customers the quality of their product.

While searching for information pertaining to "filled" verses "plated" I found this post on Specialty Metal's blog.  Even if Barry Lenson wrote the post in 2014, the information is timeless. I have never seen an expiration date forged into a piece of jewelry. I have not conducted any business with this company, but I can tell you the site is user friendly and professional looking. Nothing flashes, pops or talks which is a huge plus in my book.

Click on the link above to read about vintage items (over 20 years ago) and their gold content. Things like trophies or commemorative items, eyeglass frames, cutlery, candlesticks or gold filled dishes among other items have a bigger gold content compared to the gold plated items of today. Who knew? The following are examples of the markings found on gold filled items from the past and what it means.

1/10 10 K means one tenth of the weight is 10 K or 10 karat gold.

1/10 12 K means one tenth of the weight is 12 K or 12 karat gold.

In my notes I found a few more markings and their meanings. Plus very useful tips for deciphering those marks. For instance, any 3 digit number stamped on a piece of jewelry is referring to purity of the metal that your piece is made of. 

Fineness	Karat	Gold Percentage
333	8 K Gold	33.3%
375	9 K Gold	37.5%
416 or 417	10 K Gold	41.6% +
583 or 585	14 K Gold	58.3% +
750	18 K Gold	75.0%
916 or 917	22 K Gold	91.6% +
999	24 K Gold	99.9%

Table of corresponding gold markings, and the gold purity they signify.

This chart was copied from Bellatory I just discovered this site too. It is a forum type of site with post written by the experts. The overall theme is beauty. If you decide to check out the entire site, let the rest of us know what you think about it in a comment.

A few more from my notes:  

AK 14 K  - "AK" is Turkish for "altin kaplama" which means "gold-plated" in the Turkey language.

From 1838 - 1919 a horse's head struck in solid 18 K gold jewelry and watches represents France.

14 K S means 14 K gold-plated over silver.

14 K C H usually means 14 K gold plating over copper.

In With the Old Bring On the New!

In With the Old

Vintage old that is. 1950's through the 90's is vintage and Vintage era. I had been researching antique style, while my collection blossomed into the styles of Vintage. 

S&S aka sweetandspark.com  educates their readers about vintage jewelry. Interesting facts and the how-to-wear posts are inspiring, They also sell one-of-a-kind vintage for a reasonable price. This is one of those sites to help me with dating my own pieces. School me on vintage costume jewelry by the decade.

Bring On the New!

I am talking about the new ideas for vintage jewelry. No matter what you call it; creative reuse, re-purpose or up-cycle. It's the same thing. I'm a huge fan of this type of "crafting." The traditional intention for the wearing of each item has it's place in jewelry history royalty. But, the new ideas are charming and sexy.

A vintage jewelry collection on display in a shadow box hung on the wall. A personal touch that shows off your talents. The earrings grandma wore when you were little always matched her necklace. Maybe you have a picture of her from back then. Get creative or just keep it simple, you decide. You know it will always make you smile when you look at it and remember. My point is don't just pack stuff away. If there is a lot, share with family members. I bet everybody has fond memories of your grandma.  Admiring your treasures is what it's all about.

Vintage brooches are becoming quite popular and can be seen attached just about anywhere.
I have seen a cameo brooch as the adornment for a loose bun style. The cameo was positioned on the back underside instead of the traditional front or on top of the style. It was subtle charm and I liked it. 

Creative suggestions can be found all over the Internet. That little pocket in a pocket does have a purpose. Very subtle, cute and charming.  

Don't stick to the traditional approach. Pin the brooch on the back, side or front. Maybe a cluster of two or more finishes the look. Put you're thinking cap on. Intended.

These items look as if they are missing something to me.  A set of brooches takes "matching accessories" to the next level.

A rhinestone brooch placed on the back of a dress, right on top of the closed zipper, adds the right touch of elegance and charm to an already stunning look.

Check out this link for more ideas. https://www.pinterest.com/sweetandspark/how-to-wear-brooches/?lp=true

More Secret Treasure Found

Oh yes, there's more...

The only thing that's missing from Antique Jewelry University, as dynamic as it is, are any mention of current values. That's where Lang Antiques (the mother ship) might be of interest. Here's a link or you can go directly from the Antique Jewelry University. High-end gorgeous pictures of gorgeous items for sale can be found on this simply elegant website. User-friendly and well-organized makes it a stress-free place to visit on the Internet. No pop-ups to ask for your e-mail, remind you to sign in or force you to buy/donate (same thing really). And no survey to take either. Take a peek. Looks like it's unanimous. This ostrich? pretty sure. Funny to me! And this doggy such a sweetie! Always Love Me Kitties! Picture number 2 is freaking me out. Funny? Yes or no, leave in a comment, please.

You really should take a peek. Wow! is all I'm saying. Just one more, Wow! I got inspired to create something on my own. There are many slide shows available to view for FREE.  Lang Antiques is an all-around class act. Need I say more.

*TECH TIP*

Use the arrows, top right of the page to view full screen for maximum entertainment of the slide shows. Would you rather read the book or go see the movie in a theater? You can toggle back and forth if your answer to the previous question was both.

*FYI*

The Antique Roadshow has a data base of every appraisal done on their show.  Just picking a category works but there's an option to narrow it down to specifics about your search.

This valuable resource is often overlooked. Magazines are packed with inspiration, websites, links, ideas, motivation, pictures, supply, opportunity, designers, fashion, trends and more like contests, letters, advice and more. 

Love to Know

It's not all about jewelry. There are a lot of jewelry posts and just about any other subject you can think of posts. with what could be the ONE. I can't  remember how exactly I found this site, other than my usual jumping from link to link like I do. I struck gold on this one and so will you. Bookmark it I got another one to tell you about.

The Spruce
"Make Your Best Home"

Another great site with numerous categories. Lots of good advice, referrals, etc. .

Thrifty Fun

Questions are asked and answered by the community. The layout is quick and easy to read. It has so much more depth of information than the menu implies. Dig in! Here's a link to the contests page. Win 50 bucks by submitting a tip, or answering a few questions Excellent resource for links that would not get discovered with a simple google search.

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An update to my sidebar link list is long over due, don't you agree? I will be returning to all of them, posting any worthwhile info I find. I want to know how to find them again.

Tag, your it.     Leave a comment letting me know your favorite site.  

Secret Treasures Found!

The wealth of information I found at these websites can only be described as treasures.

There are some sites that I use frequently for research. The main focus is retail and I have completed many sales myself. Trusting in a description listed means you are trusting that the creator did proper research or already had the knowledge on that particular item. What's the chances they could be wrong, right? I am sure you've heard of these popular sites. If you are only using them to shop or sell, you're missing out on the useful knowledge they provide. I'll show you where the real treasures are located.


Morning Glory Antiques  What a stunning site! Structured for maximum efficiency. I must confess, the link will open with pictures of purses. So cool, right? But seriously, here is a kick butt (my words not theirs)  reference library link, home page. A professional style that demonstrates a committed love dedicated to jewelry.

Illusion Jewels Another good one to shop and Researching Costume Jewelry is a "widely recognized resource for jewelry history, designers and companies, jewelry marks/signatures, galleries and in depth articles. Renaissance Jewelry by Dorthea are modern creations of medieval times style of jewelry. This style is a personal favorite of mine.

*PLUS*

You won't have to dig too deep. You just hit the mother lode of "resource links.." Check it out!

EBay This site is still super popular. Use this site to help with values. Check the "completed listings" box located on the left side of the page to get a more accurate view of what items actually sold for. and when.

*INSIDER TIP*

Scroll all the way down to the bottom of just about any page on eBay. Click on "community." A treasure trove of information awaits your discovery.

and

Another area of eBay that might get overlooked is "buying guides." Some resident experts post detailed articles pertaining to their genre. The details shared are priceless.

*HOT TIP*

Search engines are not the only way to discover new sites to see. Look for a list of links on any website. Sometimes a great hook up will be included in the resource listing. A direct referral linked in a post is another way to venture out. Some folks swear by the links left in comments from readers.


Antique Jewelry University is a GREAT resource for learning all things jewelry. The website is super easy to navigate. Accurately described as a "dynamic online encyclopedia." A solid go-to for anyone responsible for writing descriptions of jewelry. You'll find in-depth articles too.. A gallery of fine examples awaits. An extensive list of jewelry designers throughout history. Helpful time lines note popular events to give a proper perspective. After one visit you will be convinced.

*FAST FACT*

Size does matter. At least when it comes to distinguishing whether you have a brooch or a pin. A measurement of  2" or less in the length, depth or width, classifies as a pin.

To be continued...