Jewelry Marks From The Past You Need To Know

Markings on jewelry can be hard to decipher. Markings include facts about your item you need to know like gold content, who made it or whether or not its plated.  I think most people are familiar with the traditional 14 K means 14 karat gold. This format for gold content is easily recognized by most of the world. Marks that are forged on either side of the 14 K are not so easy to decipher. Oh no! I was thinking the P L stood for plated. Or was it platinum? Somebody is going to re-examine her jewelry inventory.

14 K P L  = 14 karat gold plumb (full) originated from a system that accepted 13.5 karat weight as 14 karat weight. Many jewelers would add the "P L"to inform customers the quality of their product.

While searching for information pertaining to "filled" verses "plated" I found this post on Specialty Metal's blog.  Even if Barry Lenson wrote the post in 2014, the information is timeless. I have never seen an expiration date forged into a piece of jewelry. I have not conducted any business with this company, but I can tell you the site is user friendly and professional looking. Nothing flashes, pops or talks which is a huge plus in my book.

Click on the link above to read about vintage items (over 20 years ago) and their gold content. Things like trophies or commemorative items, eyeglass frames, cutlery, candlesticks or gold filled dishes among other items have a bigger gold content compared to the gold plated items of today. Who knew? The following are examples of the markings found on gold filled items from the past and what it means.

1/10 10 K means one tenth of the weight is 10 K or 10 karat gold.

1/10 12 K means one tenth of the weight is 12 K or 12 karat gold.

In my notes I found a few more markings and their meanings. Plus very useful tips for deciphering those marks. For instance, any 3 digit number stamped on a piece of jewelry is referring to purity of the metal that your piece is made of. 

Fineness	Karat	Gold Percentage
333	8 K Gold	33.3%
375	9 K Gold	37.5%
416 or 417	10 K Gold	41.6% +
583 or 585	14 K Gold	58.3% +
750	18 K Gold	75.0%
916 or 917	22 K Gold	91.6% +
999	24 K Gold	99.9%

Table of corresponding gold markings, and the gold purity they signify.

This chart was copied from Bellatory I just discovered this site too. It is a forum type of site with post written by the experts. The overall theme is beauty. If you decide to check out the entire site, let the rest of us know what you think about it in a comment.

A few more from my notes:  

AK 14 K  - "AK" is Turkish for "altin kaplama" which means "gold-plated" in the Turkey language.

From 1838 - 1919 a horse's head struck in solid 18 K gold jewelry and watches represents France.

14 K S means 14 K gold-plated over silver.

14 K C H usually means 14 K gold plating over copper.

In With the Old Bring On the New!

In With the Old

Vintage old that is. 1950's through the 90's is vintage and Vintage era. I had been researching antique style, while my collection blossomed into the styles of Vintage. 

S&S aka sweetandspark.com  educates their readers about vintage jewelry. Interesting facts and the how-to-wear posts are inspiring, They also sell one-of-a-kind vintage for a reasonable price. This is one of those sites to help me with dating my own pieces. School me on vintage costume jewelry by the decade.

Bring On the New!

I am talking about the new ideas for vintage jewelry. No matter what you call it; creative reuse, re-purpose or up-cycle. It's the same thing. I'm a huge fan of this type of "crafting." The traditional intention for the wearing of each item has it's place in jewelry history royalty. But, the new ideas are charming and sexy.

A vintage jewelry collection on display in a shadow box hung on the wall. A personal touch that shows off your talents. The earrings grandma wore when you were little always matched her necklace. Maybe you have a picture of her from back then. Get creative or just keep it simple, you decide. You know it will always make you smile when you look at it and remember. My point is don't just pack stuff away. If there is a lot, share with family members. I bet everybody has fond memories of your grandma.  Admiring your treasures is what it's all about.

Vintage brooches are becoming quite popular and can be seen attached just about anywhere.
I have seen a cameo brooch as the adornment for a loose bun style. The cameo was positioned on the back underside instead of the traditional front or on top of the style. It was subtle charm and I liked it. 

Creative suggestions can be found all over the Internet. That little pocket in a pocket does have a purpose. Very subtle, cute and charming.  

Don't stick to the traditional approach. Pin the brooch on the back, side or front. Maybe a cluster of two or more finishes the look. Put you're thinking cap on. Intended.

These items look as if they are missing something to me.  A set of brooches takes "matching accessories" to the next level.

A rhinestone brooch placed on the back of a dress, right on top of the closed zipper, adds the right touch of elegance and charm to an already stunning look.

Check out this link for more ideas. https://www.pinterest.com/sweetandspark/how-to-wear-brooches/?lp=true

Beads Made From...Bread Beads?

Just three ingredients is all that is needed to make these beads. And you probably already have them on hand. Well, plus a toothpick. And maybe a little bit of paint. Five. Five ingredients is all that is needed to make these beads.


Remove crust from three slices of bread. I guess any type of bread will work but I used the regular white sandwich bread.

Crumble the bread into a bowl and add 3 teaspoons of glue. It would probably be best to stick to the regular white school glue.

Knead until the dough is no longer sticky. Roll the dough into balls. Not too small but not too big. You can try to keep them all the same size or assorted works too.

Pierce each ball with a toothpick. Make sure you stay in the middle of your ball when piercing with the toothpick. Otherwise your beads will be lopsided. But hey, they are your beads, you decide.

Let your beads dry for a least 12 hours. Then string them up with dental floss. Dental floss is a good idea because it's sturdy. The price is right too.

Options for decorating your beads are endless. Dip in paint. Colored pencils or markers could work. Glitter would work really well for Christmas garland. These beads are a lot of fun too make with the kiddos. Have fun, and let me know your ideas by leaving a comment. Thanks for stopping by. B

What's Black Jewelry Made From ? 8 Choices Simple Tests To Find Out !

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Now that's a Stack!

Plastic is very light weight. Tapping plastic on your natural tooth will result with a clicking sound. It might be hollow and could be solid but mold lines will most certainly be present. A jeweler's loupe helps to identify this line that will run all the way around your plastic's middle.

No mold lines present? No "click, click"? Now what?

Glass is heavier than plastic and reflects light. As you hold glass in your hand it will warm up.

Stone is also heavier than plastic. In your hand it will stay cold.

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Jet is as light as plastic. It's very hard and the material resembles coal. Jet was first mined in Whitby, England in the mid 1800s. Carving this type of fossilized wood became so popular by 1870 there were approximately 200 jet shops in the small town of Whitby. Mining for jet is illegal today which translates to rarity which translates to valuable.

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Take note, jet breaks easily. That's the bad news. The good news is there's a test. Rub your specimen on concrete or clay pottery. Jet will leave a brownish black mark behind.

Gutta-purcha first appeared in England in 1841. Made out of sap from the Malayan tree. Mostly used during the Victorian era. When you run this material under hot water it will produce a noticeable burnt rubber smell. Rubbing it against your clothing creating friction is another testing method that should result with the same burnt rubber smell.

Crepe Stone is a black material made of glass.The Fowler brothers of Providence, Rhode Island introduced this distinctive looking product in 1883. Also known as English Crepe Stone.

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Bog Oak is a black material that is easily recognized because of the Irish motifs used for jewelry. It is oak wood preserved in the Bogs of Ireland.

Bakelite can be black but not all Bakelite is black. Bakelite was super popular during the 1920s and 30s. It is a phenolic (phenol formaldehyde resin) plastic. A good test that has been proven to be reliable is the 409 test. Take a cotton swab dipped in 409 bathroom cleaner and touch the material. Make sure to make contact in a hidden area on the jewelry, just to be safe. If the cotton swab remains yellow after contact it must be Bakelite.

Amazingly Beautiful Bakelite
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These two sites are packed with useful information. I mean packed!

The Spruce

Love To Know

The following is a new-to-me website for freebies, deals and etc.

Cha Ching On A String

Taxco History

After the revolution of 1910, Mexican art flourished.  The epicenter of this artistic renaissance was a quaint mountain village called Taxco, located in the region of Guerrero.  A North American architect by the name of William Spratling is credited with shaping and influencing this celebration of Mexican culture, specifically in the silver medium.

Along with Spratling's closest friends and some of Mexico's most gifted artisans, Taxco eventually became known as the silver capital of the world.  It offered the most unique and culturally authentic, artistic jewelry that could not be found anywhere else in the world and continues to this day.

Each year in November, Taxco is the site of "La Feria De La Plata", or the "World Silver Fair".  It showcases the work of new artisans as well as being a celebration of Mexican culture.  Taxco is a charming town with small cobble stone streets that wind around the mountain side.  A magical place full of history and rich in culture. 

Gold 101

     Pure (24K) gold is way too soft for everyday wear.  That's why gold jewelry is made of a mixture of gold and other metals; silver, copper, nickel and zinc.  The K (karat) number tells us what fraction of 24 parts of the alloy are pure gold.  For example 14K is 14/24 or 58.33% or a little over half pure gold. 

     The metals (silver, copper, nickel or zinc) used in the alloy also determine the color of the gold.  A high percentage of nickel gives white gold its color.  A high percentage of copper provides the reddish tone to rose gold.  Gold itself does not tarnish but these alloying metals can sometimes cause a piece to darken with time, or leave a dark residue on the skin. 

     Gold is marked differently in Europe.  It's marked with a number indicating the gold content as parts per thousand.  This means 18K gold, which is 75% pure gold, is stamped 750.  I actually found a couple of rings marked with 496 in a box of "junk jewelry".  The gold buyer confirmed them as 10K gold, a little less than half pure gold. See how that works?

       With all the attention gold has been getting these days, I've heard some folks asking if they can melt and then re-cast their gold into another piece of jewelry.  They want to hold on to the memories, not just the gold.  I am not a jeweler but I ask a lot of questions and have done a lot of research on the subject.  It is possible to melt the metal and reform it, but the alloys that are present may not "re-form" with the gold for a good result.  You never know for sure how it will turn out.  What I have been told is, many times the gold shows porosity and is not as strong.  They don't advise mixing it with "new gold" either. 

     The best procedure is to refine it, which means stripping the alloy from it and then recasting the gold with new alloy.  A jeweler usually can't do this.  A refiner works with such large quantities that just wouldn't be possible to get your gold back.  If the sentimental value of your gold is important, consult a jeweler with design and manufacturing experience about turning your gold into a nugget to be worn as a pendant.  It never hurts to ask and that's where you'll get some good advice.

     I hope this information will help all those "gold diggers" out there.  Listed below are some other articles you might find of interest on the subject.

     Good luck on your treasure hunt.

Related articles

• What alloys are in yellow and white gold? (since1910.com)
• White Gold is Not Antique (rubylane.com)
• Tiffany Creates New Pink Jeweler's Metal Called Rubedo (shoppingblog.com)
• What Is Gold-Filled Jewelery? (nyfitkoa.wordpress.com)
• A Brief Overview of Different Metals (hammermarks.wordpress.com)

Is There Any Other Jewelry Metal Besides Gold?

     Of course there are other metals besides gold.  Gold is all we here about these days.  I know it's valuable.  I know it's pretty.  But there are other metals.  Some with value.  In some opinions there are others even prettier.  I'm going to list a few that maybe you haven't got sick of hearing about.  Some you probably have never heard about. 

     Pinchbeck is an alloy of copper and zinc.  Discovered by Christopher Pinchbeck (1670-1732).  Although rarely seen today it was very popular in the eighteenth century as a gold look-alike.  Quite often ladies had their favorite gold pieces reproduced in pinchbeck to take on their travels.  The legalization of 9K gold and the invention of the electroplating process contributed to the demise of its popularity in the mid-1800's.

     Vermeil was popular in eighteenth century, France.  Vermeil pieces were made of sterling silver and coated with gold, "silver gilt".  Production was banned in the early 1800s.  It was discovered that the mercury used in the process caused the craftsmen to go blind.  Oops!

     Palladium is a member of the platinum metals group.  It is harder, lighter and less expensive than platinum.  It was used in jewelry manufacturing during WWII as a substitute for platinum, which was restricted.  Platinum was considered a strategic metal.

     Silver is not considered an ideal metal for setting precious stones because it tarnishes and is less durable.  Until the introduction of platinum and white gold alloys in the late 1800s and early 1900s, silver was the only white precious metal avaiable.  It remains popular as a jewelry metal because it is more plentiful, an therefore much less expensive.  Sterling silver is 92.5% pure silver and such pieces are often marked "SS", "Sterling" or "925".  Coin silver is 90% silver and is sometimes marked "900".  German silver and nickel silver are misnomers for alloys of other metals that contain no silver at all.

     Platinum is rarer and more expensive than gold.  It is grayish-white in color, does not tarnish and is very strong.  Very high temperatures are necessary to melt platinum.  It did not become a viable jewelry metal until advancements in jewelers' tools were made in the late 1800s.  It became the most popular jewelry metal in America in the 1920s.  It was the ideal choice for the lacy filigree styles of the period because of its durability.  Jewelry platinum is an alloy, usually 90% platinum and 10% iridum.  Typically stamped "Plat."

Related articles

• South Africa's PGM production plummets (business.financialpost.com)
• Types of Metals (preciousmetalinvestment.wordpress.com)
• Ajarn Donald's Blog: From Trash to Treasure (ajarndonald.wordpress.com)

Silver (Not Gold) Jewelry Is The Newest Fashion

     If you're into antiques at all you must have heard of Terry and Kim Kovel.  They've been around for awhile and they know what they are talking about when it comes to antiques of all kinds.  Kovels Komments is the name of their newsletter I receive through email.  Imagine my delight to see jewelry as the hot topic for this edition.
     They offer a free price guide on their web site.  And, if you click here you will be taken to the home page.  Sign up for a free issue of their newsletter.  It's over flowing with information.  From my experience, the newsletter comes rather quickly.  You won't be disappointed.

Image via Wikipedia

      "Jewelry, whether made from gold and precious gems or plastic and colored glass, is popular with collectors. Values are determined by the intrinsic value of the stones and metal and by the skill of the craftsmen and designers. Victorian and older jewelry have been collected since the 1950s. More recent interests are Art Deco and Edwardian styles, Mexican and Danish silver jewelry, and beads of all kinds. Copies of almost all styles are being made."

-Kovels Komments

Image via Wikipedia

      "Silver has new status and name designers are using it with precious stones to create innovative designs. Silver jewelry is a better color than gold when worn with the neon colors being shown for spring. Pre-owned jewelry is considered chic now, so look for vintage silver jewelry to be higher-priced. Or could the sudden interest in new silver jewelry be the result of the high price of gold?"

- Kovels Komments

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