Don't Assume Anything When Evaluating Jewelry

image picjumbo

Even the experts have to look closely when examining jewelry. They look to see if there are markings of any kind stamped usually out of sight. The mark can tell a lot about the item. Sometimes the metal content will be revealed, the maker, where it was made and sometimes when it was made.

Wait just a minute. Don't assume just because you can't find any visible marks that it is not valuable. I myself have found a solid gold piece that was not marked, in a thrift store.

I have also found items that were marked gold but were not. Crooks will not stop at anything to get your money. Be aware. Don't assume. Don't invest any money that you can't afford to lose. That would take all the fun out of it. Use common sense. I promise you will come across a treasure of your own some time if you havn't already.

There can be significant value in a well made piece of costume jewelry by the right maker with or without marks also. That is why it is so important to do your research.

I've put together a list of some tips that will be useful on your hunt for treasure.

image pixabay

• Take your tools like a magnifier or magnet with you when shopping second hand.
• Waiting for a sale can be profitable on silver and gold pieces of jewelry at the thrift store. D.A.V. thrift stores in my area have 1/2 price sales.
• Make yourself familiar with the different markings for gold and silver. There are many to consider. Sterling, plated, HGE, 10 K, Plat, Vermeil, etc. 
• Glass is cold to the touch at first but will warm in your hand as you hold it. 
• A semi-precious stone will stay cold to the touch.
• If an opal looks too perfect it is faked. Same size, shape and color in the flecks is a dead give away it's faked. If there are gaps evenly spaced, more than likely fake.  
• Opals come from Australia. A country of origin mark is a clue for dating purposes.
• Knowing laws and when they were implemented helps to date items. 
• Learning when a certain technique for jewelry making was invented will help date an item.
• Aurora Borealis aka AB was invented by Swarovski and Christian Dior in the 1950's.
• Russia and Hong Kong create a large amount of synthetic stones.
• You never want a cloudy gemstone. The richer the color the better.
• Look at the metal setting around your gemstone. If it is super fancy and outshines your gemstone, it could be over compensating for some where it is lacking. Might be a fake stone. 
• A real diamond does not fog but fake will.
• Check weight. A heavy solid construction usually indicates an older more valuable item. But not always.
• When you look at the back of a piece of jewelry, is it many settings or one solid setting. Separate settings is what you want. If you can look at the back and see that it is just as beautiful as the front you know you have got a really nice piece very well made. 
• Gold and silver are never magnetic and do not turn skin green.
• Look for any worn spots that show a different color metal underneath.
• Learn what tarnished silver smells like. Seriously.
• The facets will be cut sharp when the stone is authentic. If facets are rounded not so much.
• The corners or edges of gold jewelry are never sharp. Gold is too soft to form a sharp edge.
• Mystic topaz and Rainbow topaz are the stone. Vacuum disposition is the treatment used to enhance a clear topaz that is an actual semi-precious stone. 
• Lots of gemstones are "treated" "enhanced" "heated" or what-not.  

Some of these tips I was aware of already but I have been watching a very informative Dr. Lori on you tube lately. You should check her out. She is smart about all antiques. She educates as she appraises and spices it up with a unique sense of humor that's down to earth. She also has a website packed with tips. https://www.drloriv.com/

I guess my final tip for this post would be to keep educating yourself. Don't be afraid to make a mistake because that is how we learn. Happy hunting! 

3 Tests 2 Rules 3 Marks Solid Gold Or Plated?

In a perfect world you could trust everybody. Truth to be told, that's just not the case especially when it comes to money. Arm yourself with the knowledge needed to determine the authenticity of any piece of jewelry. You will never get scammed.

Rule #1  Real gold and silver are never magnetic.
Rule #2  Real gold and silver does not turn your skin green.

Test #1

Place the jewelry to be tested in a small stainless steel container. Drop a small amount of nitric acid on the item in a spot that is not obvious. Look for the presence of a reaction and it's color.

• reaction color is green, your metal is gold plated.
• reaction color is gold, your metal is brass or gold plated.
• reaction color is milky, your metal is gold plated over sterling 
• no reaction at all, you've got real gold.

Test #2

Bleach will not affect real gold. If it's fake the bleach will change the color of the metal it comes into contact with.  Always pay attention when using bleach. It is a strong colorless chemical that can cause damage to most surfaces.

Test #3

One more test to try is the scratch test In an inconspicuous place scratch item in question until you see the metal underneath. A scratch may not be required if corners show wear and reveal the metal underneath.


Item stamped with .417 is the equivalent to 10 K.
Item stamped with .585 is the equivalent to 14 K.
Item stamped with .750 is the equivalent to 18 K.

Metal Identification Marks On Jewelry Defined

Gold
K = Karat
KP = Karat Plumb (exact amount of gold)
K.P. = Karat Plate
GF = Gold Filled (heavy plating), usually has a fraction, i.e., 1/20 10K GF
GS = Gold Shell
HGE = Heavy Gold Electroplate
Decimal equivalents of karat ratings:
.375 = 9K (England and Canada)
.417 = 10K
.500 = 12K
.583 (.585) = 14K
.625 = 15K
.667 = 16K
.750 = 18K
.833 = 20K (Asia)
.917 = 22K (Asia)
.999 (1000) = 24K pure gold
Silver
925 (.925) = Sterling
925 NV = Nevada Silver, made in England, electroplated nickel silver
835 (.835) = a lower quality of British Sterling Silver
Sterling
Taxco
MEXICO
STER
.999 Fine = Pure Silver
Platinum
Pt (atomic symbol)
Irid. Plat.
Pt 900
Pt 950
PLAT
Other
316L = High-grade Stainless Steel

Alpaco Stamped Jewelry Vs. Taxco Stamped Jewelry

Taxco Bracelet
Love It!

Taxco Mark

First, groundwork is needed. It has come to my attention that some people are misrepresenting jewelry stamped with Alpaca as sterling silver from Mexico. I don't believe the people describing this jewelry incorrectly, mean to defraud. I'm confident as soon as everyone learns the truth, corrections will happen.

Taxco
Snake Jewelry

This is one possible explanation that resulted in confusion with these marks. Jewelry collectors are familiar with Taxco in Mexico. Taxco and its silver deposits are well known in the jewelry world. Quality silver jewelry produced by artists from Taxco in Mexico are appropriately stamped with some form of the written word "Taxco".  The word itself was a constant, sometimes all caps was used, and variations in the makers mark, if included at all, took many forms through the years. An expert date's the item from these clues in the markings. But, that's the subject for another post.

Taxco de Alarcón Municipality
 located in the Mexican state of Guerrero
aka Silver City

What I hope to clarify is jewelry coming from Mexico, stamped Alpaca, is not made from a precious metal. A lot of people are mistaking Alpaca as a city in Mexico. Understandably, they assume since there is a Taxco in Mexico producing sliver jewelry, there must be an Alpaca in Mexico.

Alpaca Mark
on bracelet

Elaborate
Alpaca
Necklace

There is NOT an Alpaco in Mexico. The pieces marked this way are not silver. At least not the precious metal, the .925 sliver coming from Taxco we all think of when we think of silver jewelry. Alpaca is their term for "nickel" silver or "german" silver. Contains no silver whatsoever. Alpaca jewelry is produced as an inexpensive option for consumers unable to afford the actual .925 silver. Alpaca jewelry pieces are equally attractive as their counterparts. Some say they are more attractive because the designers attempt to make up for using the lesser metal alloy. For comparable pieces of jewelry the Alpaca stamped value is less.

Alpaca Bracelet

Follow this link to a superb guide for everything silver, silver plated, makers marks, the works! Alpaca info can be found towards the bottom of the article.

Stamped Markings On Jewelry Defined

SILVER 

925 = Sterling 
Sterling 
Taxco 
MEXICO 

PLATINUM

Pt 
Irid. Plat. 
Pt 900 
Pt 950 
PLAT 

GOLD 

K = Karat ( 14K would be 14 karat etc...) 
KP = Karat Plumb (the manufacturer guarantees it the minimum amount of gold) 

410 = 10K 
585 = 14K 
750 = 18K 
917 = 22K (Asia) 
999 = 24K pure gold (Asia) 

GF  gold filled 

RGP rolled gold plate 

HGE Heavy gold plate 

GP gold plate 

KP Karat Plated 

GS Gold shelled 

EPNS Electroplated nickel silver (german Silver) 


What about KP as in Karat Plumb
In Europe they use KP to signify that there are exactly X parts of gold, so 14KP means that there are exactly 14 parts gold or 58.5% gold.

Gold in the US, prior to October 1st 1981 it was legally allowed to be stamped ½ karat under the actual gold content if no solder was used in its manufacture. If solder was used it could legally be 1 full karat under the hallmarked karat content.

After October 1st 1981 gold jewelry not containing solder could only deviate from its hallmark purity by 3 parts in 1000, and gold jewelry with solder is allowed to deviate by 7 parts in 1000.
It is not legal to hallmark Gold Jewelry made in the US at less than 10K (you will see 9K as an example in England).

Is it K or ct or just a 3 digit number? The ‘ct’ is interchangeable with ‘K’ for karat. The term KARAT refers to the fineness of gold. The word CARAT usually refers to a weight, generally for gemstones but is also used for gold. All a bit confusing, but both are OK to use. The number refers to the fineness of gold in parts per 1000. All these marks are acceptable as it depends on where it was made.
There are many carat amounts used in jewelry. Below are the most common…

8K, 8ct or 333 (parts per 1000) or is 33.3% gold (usually European. Not recognized in USA. The lowest possible standard. Will tarnish sometimes)

9K, 9ct or 375 (parts per 1000) or is 37.5% gold (mainly British Commonwealth countries. Not recognized in USA. Hard wearing.)

10K, 10ct or 416 (parts per 1000) or is 41.6% gold (Minimum USA standard. Hard wearing.)

12K, 12ct or 500 (parts per 1000) or is 50% gold (usually old watch cases. Rarely seen)

14K, 14ct or 585 (parts per 1000) or 58.5% gold (Asian for overseas market. Common in USA. Russian 584.)

15K, 15ct or 625 (parts per 1000) or 62.5 % gold (British Commonwealth countries. Discontinued c1935. A good indicator that the piece is old.)

18K, 18ct or 750 (parts per 1000) or 75% gold. (Most quality pieces are 18ct. Minimum gold standard for sale in Italy.)

22K, 22ct or 916 (parts per 1000) or 91.6% gold (mainly Asia, Middle East. Very soft. Very yellow)

24K, 24ct or 1000 (parts per 1000) or PURE gold (too soft for most jewelry manufacturers)

Other countries will designate their gold content by stamping the numbers above into the jewelry.  For example "625" "750" "916".  I came across a ring once that had a three digit marking not like the ones I was use to seeing.  I took it to a jewelry store and found out it was gold.  The place I had acquired it from had processed it as "junk" because they did not know of these different markings.  

Sterling Silver vs. Silver-Plated

Silver is a precious metal and valued third behind platinum and gold.  A list of all metals in order of value, with the highest first, goes like this:  platinum, gold, silver, bronze, brass, copper, pewter, and iron. Because silver is a valuable commodity, pieces made of silver were often melted to put food on the table during tough economic times.  Very old pieces are quite rare.

Sterling is a standard of silver fineness that means 92.5 percent pure silver and 7.5 percent mixed with copper to increase durability.  This standard was set by the English by an ordinance in 1300.  In 1477, a law was passed in London requiring the stamping of the leopard's head or crowned leopard's head on every piece f silver of the accepted standard.  In 1479, the use of the date letter was used, and finally the maker's mark.  The leopard's head was replaced in 1544 by the walking lion.

From 1697 to 1720, the standard for sterling was raised to 95 percent pure silver, and pieces meeting this new standard were stamped "Britannia."  Hallmarked pieces will be punched with three to five marks; sterling mark, maker's mark, year of manufacture, duty mark, town hallmark.  The European standard for sterling currently ranges from .800/.825 to .925.

Sterling production in the United States was not regulated as early,compared to England.  Most of the makers marked their silver with their names or initials and maybe an eagle's head.  By 1850, American silversmith were using their first initial and full last name and also adding a second punch to indicate the silver standard.  C stood for coin which is a little less than .925.  Or D for dollar and S for standard with both of these mean sterling.  Occasionally they would mark a piece sterling.  It wasn't until 1907 that  this acquired a legal definition in the United States and came into wide use among silversmiths.

Silver Plate is created when a base metal, usually nickel silver is coated with a layer of pure silver by electroplating.  It is sometimes marked "silver plate" and sometimes marked "EPNS" which stands for electro-plated nickel silver.  Usually this mark is found on flatware.

Silver-plated jewelry is not usually marked with anything.  Recently sliver-plated items have been found to be marked with .925 incorrectly.  Buyer beware!  Sometimes you'll find authentic gemstones set in these fakes.  

Sometimes plating can make a piece of jewelry look extremely shiney and may convince some that the sterling was just polished and is so bright and dazzling they believe it is genuine .925 quality when it is not.

Look for the .925 stamp.  You will need a magnifier for this.  Hold it in your hand to feel it.  The weight of the piece is also a clue.

• For earrings you sometimes have to check the wire.  The part that goes through the ear.
• Chains should have the mark close to or on the clasp.
• Pendants may have mark on the backside or the interior of the bail.
• Bracelets will usually be marked on the interior or on the clasp.
• Rings will be marked somewhere on the interior of the band.
• Sterling items will be heavier than plated items.
• Sterling will be cooler to the touch.
• Plated will rattle and have a tinny sound to earrings and pendant bails and wires when you shake it around and listen.
• Sterling does have a distinctive smell and taste like that of a currency coin.  I'm not saying you should put in your mouth.  Use common sense for this test.
• Sterling silver should often bend a bit since it is malleable.  Be careful not to damage it.
• Silver plated is a lot harder and will not bend.
  

Taxco History

After the revolution of 1910, Mexican art flourished.  The epicenter of this artistic renaissance was a quaint mountain village called Taxco, located in the region of Guerrero.  A North American architect by the name of William Spratling is credited with shaping and influencing this celebration of Mexican culture, specifically in the silver medium.

Along with Spratling's closest friends and some of Mexico's most gifted artisans, Taxco eventually became known as the silver capital of the world.  It offered the most unique and culturally authentic, artistic jewelry that could not be found anywhere else in the world and continues to this day.

Each year in November, Taxco is the site of "La Feria De La Plata", or the "World Silver Fair".  It showcases the work of new artisans as well as being a celebration of Mexican culture.  Taxco is a charming town with small cobble stone streets that wind around the mountain side.  A magical place full of history and rich in culture. 

Is There Any Other Jewelry Metal Besides Gold?

     Of course there are other metals besides gold.  Gold is all we here about these days.  I know it's valuable.  I know it's pretty.  But there are other metals.  Some with value.  In some opinions there are others even prettier.  I'm going to list a few that maybe you haven't got sick of hearing about.  Some you probably have never heard about. 

     Pinchbeck is an alloy of copper and zinc.  Discovered by Christopher Pinchbeck (1670-1732).  Although rarely seen today it was very popular in the eighteenth century as a gold look-alike.  Quite often ladies had their favorite gold pieces reproduced in pinchbeck to take on their travels.  The legalization of 9K gold and the invention of the electroplating process contributed to the demise of its popularity in the mid-1800's.

     Vermeil was popular in eighteenth century, France.  Vermeil pieces were made of sterling silver and coated with gold, "silver gilt".  Production was banned in the early 1800s.  It was discovered that the mercury used in the process caused the craftsmen to go blind.  Oops!

     Palladium is a member of the platinum metals group.  It is harder, lighter and less expensive than platinum.  It was used in jewelry manufacturing during WWII as a substitute for platinum, which was restricted.  Platinum was considered a strategic metal.

     Silver is not considered an ideal metal for setting precious stones because it tarnishes and is less durable.  Until the introduction of platinum and white gold alloys in the late 1800s and early 1900s, silver was the only white precious metal avaiable.  It remains popular as a jewelry metal because it is more plentiful, an therefore much less expensive.  Sterling silver is 92.5% pure silver and such pieces are often marked "SS", "Sterling" or "925".  Coin silver is 90% silver and is sometimes marked "900".  German silver and nickel silver are misnomers for alloys of other metals that contain no silver at all.

     Platinum is rarer and more expensive than gold.  It is grayish-white in color, does not tarnish and is very strong.  Very high temperatures are necessary to melt platinum.  It did not become a viable jewelry metal until advancements in jewelers' tools were made in the late 1800s.  It became the most popular jewelry metal in America in the 1920s.  It was the ideal choice for the lacy filigree styles of the period because of its durability.  Jewelry platinum is an alloy, usually 90% platinum and 10% iridum.  Typically stamped "Plat."

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Gold & Silver Meltdown Stories

compliments of Terry and Kim Kovel, Kovels Komments

Gold and silver prices are going up and down but are still very high. We took some commemorative silver dollars and other gold and silver items to be melted. The $1 coins brought $20 each. A gold charm that was a wire circle, 1 1/4 inch in diameter with a small half-mask inside, had a meltdown value of $270. A tooth with a large gold filling was worth $30. (We wonder why we had saved a filled gold tooth.)                                                  

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• Thief who took $400K in gold nuggets from Sussex County museum may have melted stolen goods (nj.com)
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Silver (Not Gold) Jewelry Is The Newest Fashion

     If you're into antiques at all you must have heard of Terry and Kim Kovel.  They've been around for awhile and they know what they are talking about when it comes to antiques of all kinds.  Kovels Komments is the name of their newsletter I receive through email.  Imagine my delight to see jewelry as the hot topic for this edition.
     They offer a free price guide on their web site.  And, if you click here you will be taken to the home page.  Sign up for a free issue of their newsletter.  It's over flowing with information.  From my experience, the newsletter comes rather quickly.  You won't be disappointed.

Image via Wikipedia

      "Jewelry, whether made from gold and precious gems or plastic and colored glass, is popular with collectors. Values are determined by the intrinsic value of the stones and metal and by the skill of the craftsmen and designers. Victorian and older jewelry have been collected since the 1950s. More recent interests are Art Deco and Edwardian styles, Mexican and Danish silver jewelry, and beads of all kinds. Copies of almost all styles are being made."

-Kovels Komments

Image via Wikipedia

      "Silver has new status and name designers are using it with precious stones to create innovative designs. Silver jewelry is a better color than gold when worn with the neon colors being shown for spring. Pre-owned jewelry is considered chic now, so look for vintage silver jewelry to be higher-priced. Or could the sudden interest in new silver jewelry be the result of the high price of gold?"

- Kovels Komments

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Gold And Silver Markings

Gold

K = Karat
KP = Karat Plumb (exact amount of gold)
K.P. = Karat Plate
GF = Gold Filled (heavy plating), usually has a fraction, i.e., 1/20 10K GF
GS = Gold Shell
HGE = Heavy Gold Electroplate

Decimal equivalents of karat ratings:
.375 = 9K (England and Canada)
.417 = 10K
.500 = 12K.583 (.585) = 14K
.625 = 15K
.667 = 16K
.750 = 18K
.833 = 20K (Asia)
.917 = 22K (Asia)
.999 (1000) = 24K pure gold

Silver

925 (.925) = Sterling
925 NV = Nevada Silver, made in England(?)835 (.835) = a lower quality of British Sterling Silver
SterlingTaxco
MEXICO
STER
.999 Fine = Pure Silver

Platinum

Pt (atomic symbol)
Irid. Plat.Pt 900
Pt 950PLAT

Other

316L = High-grade Stainless Steel