Don't Assume Anything When Evaluating Jewelry

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Even the experts have to look closely when examining jewelry. They look to see if there are markings of any kind stamped usually out of sight. The mark can tell a lot about the item. Sometimes the metal content will be revealed, the maker, where it was made and sometimes when it was made.

Wait just a minute. Don't assume just because you can't find any visible marks that it is not valuable. I myself have found a solid gold piece that was not marked, in a thrift store.

I have also found items that were marked gold but were not. Crooks will not stop at anything to get your money. Be aware. Don't assume. Don't invest any money that you can't afford to lose. That would take all the fun out of it. Use common sense. I promise you will come across a treasure of your own some time if you havn't already.

There can be significant value in a well made piece of costume jewelry by the right maker with or without marks also. That is why it is so important to do your research.

I've put together a list of some tips that will be useful on your hunt for treasure.

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• Take your tools like a magnifier or magnet with you when shopping second hand.
• Waiting for a sale can be profitable on silver and gold pieces of jewelry at the thrift store. D.A.V. thrift stores in my area have 1/2 price sales.
• Make yourself familiar with the different markings for gold and silver. There are many to consider. Sterling, plated, HGE, 10 K, Plat, Vermeil, etc. 
• Glass is cold to the touch at first but will warm in your hand as you hold it. 
• A semi-precious stone will stay cold to the touch.
• If an opal looks too perfect it is faked. Same size, shape and color in the flecks is a dead give away it's faked. If there are gaps evenly spaced, more than likely fake.  
• Opals come from Australia. A country of origin mark is a clue for dating purposes.
• Knowing laws and when they were implemented helps to date items. 
• Learning when a certain technique for jewelry making was invented will help date an item.
• Aurora Borealis aka AB was invented by Swarovski and Christian Dior in the 1950's.
• Russia and Hong Kong create a large amount of synthetic stones.
• You never want a cloudy gemstone. The richer the color the better.
• Look at the metal setting around your gemstone. If it is super fancy and outshines your gemstone, it could be over compensating for some where it is lacking. Might be a fake stone. 
• A real diamond does not fog but fake will.
• Check weight. A heavy solid construction usually indicates an older more valuable item. But not always.
• When you look at the back of a piece of jewelry, is it many settings or one solid setting. Separate settings is what you want. If you can look at the back and see that it is just as beautiful as the front you know you have got a really nice piece very well made. 
• Gold and silver are never magnetic and do not turn skin green.
• Look for any worn spots that show a different color metal underneath.
• Learn what tarnished silver smells like. Seriously.
• The facets will be cut sharp when the stone is authentic. If facets are rounded not so much.
• The corners or edges of gold jewelry are never sharp. Gold is too soft to form a sharp edge.
• Mystic topaz and Rainbow topaz are the stone. Vacuum disposition is the treatment used to enhance a clear topaz that is an actual semi-precious stone. 
• Lots of gemstones are "treated" "enhanced" "heated" or what-not.  

Some of these tips I was aware of already but I have been watching a very informative Dr. Lori on you tube lately. You should check her out. She is smart about all antiques. She educates as she appraises and spices it up with a unique sense of humor that's down to earth. She also has a website packed with tips. https://www.drloriv.com/

I guess my final tip for this post would be to keep educating yourself. Don't be afraid to make a mistake because that is how we learn. Happy hunting! 

Clues For Dating Vintage Earrings Hallmark Mistakes Cost Money

Something to add to your detective toolbox. What the hell am I talking about? You'll see. Read on!

Helpful clues when determining the age of vintage earrings is knowing how they attached to the ears and when that attachment was invented.

               circa 1800 shepherd hook wire
               circa 1873 no name given for this style (hard to explain)
               circa 1882 kidney wire
               circa 1894 screw back (pierced)
               circa 1900 lever back
               circa 1909 screw back style #2 (piercing not necessary)
               circa 1929 post & butterfly
                                  circa 1934 spring clip better known as Clip On
                                  circa 1960 omega back

Earrings have a history way before what is listed above. Earrings have been worn by both men and women. Sometimes worn to reveal your status in the community or mark a specific accomplishment. Sometimes worn as a fashion accessory. The hair and clothing styles of the day often dictated the practicality of wearing earrings at all. 

With that being said, I should not have to tell you that it all comes down to your own personal style. Whether you choose to wear what is currently trending or prefer to be on the cutting edge, be yourself and the best you will shine too.

Mark found on jewelry: AK 14 k "It has nothing to do with gold plating" e-bay seller.

It was my understanding for a long time that AK 14 k stamped on jewelry from Turkey meant your item was gold-plated. I stand corrected. Further research has revealed the AK represents Atasay Kuyumculuk. This is a well known jewelry manufacturer in Turkey. They exported a lot of jewelry to the United States over the years. Nothing to do with gold-plating. They say the word "Turkey" is commonly included in the mark. For example: AK Turkey 14 kt.

AK is also the mark for the manufacturer, Armin Kurz, in Switzerland. The e-bay seller goes on to say that Armin Kurz only deals in 18 k gold jewelry. Here's a link to the conversation on ebay. The posters seem to know what they are talking about. The fact someone commented about the gold plating idea and got shot down helped to convince me.

What does the PL stand for in the marking 14 K PL? Platinum? Plated?

If you find this marking,14 K PL, don't mistake it for "plated" like I have. The "PL" actually stands for "plumb" or full weight. Instead of weighing 13.5 for instance, the item is the full weight at 14 K.

If you find this marking 14 K PL, don't mistake it for "plated" like I have. The "PL" actually stands for "plumb" or full weight. Instead of weighing 13.5 for instance, the item is the full weight at 14 K.

The lesson to be learned here is no matter how much you think you know, you should never stop learning and updating that knowledge.

Here's one more tip to keep you tuned in.

If you have a piece of silver jewelry marked with 925, you can be absolutely sure that it is not a native american piece of jewelry. They might not have used a 925 marking to represent silver, but the word "sterling" was used often by the native american. Good to know.

In With the Old Bring On the New!

In With the Old

Vintage old that is. 1950's through the 90's is vintage and Vintage era. I had been researching antique style, while my collection blossomed into the styles of Vintage. 

S&S aka sweetandspark.com  educates their readers about vintage jewelry. Interesting facts and the how-to-wear posts are inspiring, They also sell one-of-a-kind vintage for a reasonable price. This is one of those sites to help me with dating my own pieces. School me on vintage costume jewelry by the decade.

Bring On the New!

I am talking about the new ideas for vintage jewelry. No matter what you call it; creative reuse, re-purpose or up-cycle. It's the same thing. I'm a huge fan of this type of "crafting." The traditional intention for the wearing of each item has it's place in jewelry history royalty. But, the new ideas are charming and sexy.

A vintage jewelry collection on display in a shadow box hung on the wall. A personal touch that shows off your talents. The earrings grandma wore when you were little always matched her necklace. Maybe you have a picture of her from back then. Get creative or just keep it simple, you decide. You know it will always make you smile when you look at it and remember. My point is don't just pack stuff away. If there is a lot, share with family members. I bet everybody has fond memories of your grandma.  Admiring your treasures is what it's all about.

Vintage brooches are becoming quite popular and can be seen attached just about anywhere.
I have seen a cameo brooch as the adornment for a loose bun style. The cameo was positioned on the back underside instead of the traditional front or on top of the style. It was subtle charm and I liked it. 

Creative suggestions can be found all over the Internet. That little pocket in a pocket does have a purpose. Very subtle, cute and charming.  

Don't stick to the traditional approach. Pin the brooch on the back, side or front. Maybe a cluster of two or more finishes the look. Put you're thinking cap on. Intended.

These items look as if they are missing something to me.  A set of brooches takes "matching accessories" to the next level.

A rhinestone brooch placed on the back of a dress, right on top of the closed zipper, adds the right touch of elegance and charm to an already stunning look.

Check out this link for more ideas. https://www.pinterest.com/sweetandspark/how-to-wear-brooches/?lp=true

14 Unknown Facts About Jewelry

Wearing Your Jewelry

Long drop earrings give the illusion of length to your face.  So they're a great thing for those who have chubby cheeks or maybe a double chin.

Perfume oils will discolor gold, pearls and other gems.  Don't spray perfume over your jewelry.  This goes for hair spray too.  This can easily be avoided by putting your jewelry on after you are completely dressed with hair and makeup in place.

Cleaning Your Costume Jewelry

Jewelry made with some stones and with imitation gold & silver can be washed in mild dish washing liquid and warm water.  Wash in bowl not sink ( you don't want to take the risk of losing something down the drain).  Individual pieces of jewelry should not touch each other in solution so as not to scratch.  After soaking for a minute, brush individual piece with soft toothbrush and dry with chamois cloth or facial tissue.  Before you dump left over solution make sure to check the bowl for lost pieces.  DO NOT use bleach because it will damage metal mounts beyond repair.

Absolute Clean Online

Special Treatment Required

     Ivory - Dust ivory pieces regularly with soft cloth; using a clean, soft toothbrush to reach into carved areas.  Sunshine keeps ivory from yellowing but too much sun can cause ivory to crack.  Perfume and hair spray can cause discoloring.
     Jade - Combine 1 tablespoon ammonia and 1 cup hot water.  Swish jewelry briefly and dry immediately with soft cloth.  Jade scratches easily.
     Jet - Never soak in water or any type of chemical solution.  Just wipe with damp soft cloth.
     Diamonds - Swish these stones briefly in 1 tablespoon ammonia and 1 cup hot water.  Then dip in rubbing alcohol and pat dry with tissue paper.

Interesting Jewelry Facts Not Well Known

• Only one natural pearl will form out of every 10,000 oysters. That's it. 
• 100,000 year old beads made from Nassarius shells is officially known as the oldest ever found
• Americans spell it jewelry, everyone else spells it jewellery.
• "Jewel", from the old French jouel, which comes from the latin jocale, translation - plaything.
• For the past 100 years Africa has been the top producer of gold.
• The #1 producer of silver is Mexico. A close second is Peru.
• Real Amber, fossilized tree resin at least a million years old, will float in water.
• In Asia, the Middle East and Africa, 24K gold is used in the making of jewelry.
• In the USA and across Europe, most jewelers believe 24K is too soft for jewelry making.
• A large, perfect, gem quality ruby is worth more than a diamond the same size and quality.
• Peridot, Lapis Lazuli and Pearls were ground up and used as eye shadow in ancient times.
• Naturally colored diamonds are extremely rare. The most expensive and rarest are red, purple and then pink. Their white cousins are abundant and cost considerably less.
• Burma Rubies are not allowed out of Burma. These rubies are quite valuable and can only be purchased on the secondary market.
• Live insect jewelry was popular at certain times in history. You heard me right. Egyptians wore scarab beetles into battle. A Mexican Maquech Beetle and the Giant Madagascar Hissing Cockroach  were also used in jewelry. Victorians in Britain could often be seen sporting live beetles attached to their clothing by tiny, fine gold chains.

    Lots of jewelry history to be found at this link by by clicking here.

   Instructions for jewelry you can make. I especially like the dainty knot ring. #13

9 Facts About Aurora Borealis Antique or Not.

It's not uncommon to find "antique" in the description of a piece of jewelry containing aurora borealis beads or stones. Sometimes the circa date listed will be way before the technique was even invented. I don't think the author means to mislead. More than likely they have been misinformed. The uneducated reader will assume it's true. "It's on the Internet, it must be true." Right? Wrong!

Since I am a witness to this crime of misinformation, it is my duty to report the crime to the proper authorities. You know I'm kidding don't you. While this isn't necessarily a felony or even a misdemeanor, it should not be taken lightly. The monetary value of an item depends on an item being correctly identified.

So here are facts about Aurora Borealis. I'll even back up what I'm saying with a link to an article written by an expert in costume jewelry. Matter of fact she has even written a book on the subject maybe you've heard of it, Warman's Costume Jewelry, Identification and Price Guide.

Fact #1

Aurora Borealis is sometimes listed as AB.

Fact #2

Manfred Swarovski and Christian Dior invented the process in 1955.

Fact #3

The process involves layering thin metal over glass in a steam vacuum, producing a magnificent, sparkling, iridescent finish.

Fact #4

Swarovski produced optical products for the military starting in 1939. Stone shipments out of Austria during this time were highly limited,

Fact #5

Aurora Borealis  mistakenly gets attributed to earlier beads with an iridescent finish.

Fact #6

The high quality Aurora Borealis rhinestones produced by Swarovski were widely used in costume jewelry manufacture in the late 50s through early 60s.

Fact #7

AB has been wrongly labeled as "carnival glass."

Fact #8

The aurora borealis seen in today's costume jewelry, doesn't begin to compare to the quality of the originals.

Fact #9

The brand became the name. Like Jello, Band-Aid or Kleenex. Or Vaseline, Q-tips and Post-its. Aurora Borealis has become the name for iridescent finish in costume jewelry.

Before I hook you up to that link I mentioned earlier, I want to tell you about the website that is host to the article being linked. This is one cool website. It's user friendly. The content is massive. They share the kind of information we want to know. They don't make you click and click to find the end of your article. The pictures they use are perfect. It doesn't take forever to load. They cover subjects like collecting coins and include actual price guides. You'll find links to free printable patterns for making clothes for barbie dolls. How-to diy home repair is a listing. Gardening, magic tricks, refurbishing furniture, flea market advice for buyers and sellers, feng shui instruction, getting organized, stain removal with homemade cleaners,  All sorts of free printables. There is minimal advertising and I never experienced a pop up. There is nothing but good, useful, informative, fun, helpful stuff oozing every where you look. No body's perfect, right. I did notice some typoss, mispellings, not so good grammar, but nothing that couldn't be overlooked because of the delightful, bursting with awesomeness on every page. I will be revisiting this one many times for sure. Besides I forgot to sign up for the newsletter. Oh, one more thing, click on the three lines in the upper left corner of home page and a search box will appear for quicker access. Let me just say, taking the scenic route will not disappoint.

The website, thespruce.com. 

Still confused about classifying antique, estate, vintage or period jewelry.
Pamela Wiggins, author of Warman's Costume Jewelry tells-all on the subject in another easy-read article, found on TheSpruce website. 
                         
And in case you did not realize by clicking "link" above for the Aurora Borealis article, here's the link again.

More About Dating Costume Jewelry

Dating Your Costume Jewelry

Electroplating was developed in 1840's.

Aurora borealis rhinestones were first introduced in the mid 50's.

Older jewelry has substantial heft for the most part.

Copyright symbols first appeared on jewelry made in 1955 to present.

Quality vintage rhinestone pieces are usually set in prongs.

Authentic vintage jewelry most likely will show signs of wear, particularly in the clasp area

Older brooches have smooth backs, not those patterned ridges that are common.

Old mine cut -  19th century method of faceting gemstones, usually diamonds, up until early 1900.   Fewer facets means a different twinkle.  Subtle sparker, not a fiery flash.

 Cabochon - a gem that has a smooth rounded surface instead of facets and lays flat.  Gleams instead of sparkles.

 Paste - pieces of glass cut and colored to look like a gem.  A form of imitation that dates back to the 17th century.  Many paste pieces were often made and set into precious metals.

Millegrain - metal setting for stones decorated with tiny raised beads.  Popular in the early 20th century and often used to day to give jewelry an antique look.


Parure or Suite - necklace, two bracelets, ring, earrings, brooch and sometimes tiara or other hair piece.

Demi-parure - necklace, earrings and brooch

Today three or more coordinating pieces, designed to be worn together as a set are often referred to as a parure.

All About Cameos

I have taken the following from an all inclusive article published by eBay.com, 

Your Guide To Buying Vintage Cameos.  Follow this link to read the article in its entirety. It's a must read for anyone interested in cameos

"A cameo is an elevated engraving formed into stone, shell, glass, coral or another gem material. Artisans carve the design into the top section of the chosen base substance.  After completing the initial carving, jewelry makers will remove more material to make a background"... read more  

    

This is a great article from Collectors Weekly with lots of pictures.
Purchase a cameo from 1928.  Elegant and timeless.

Authentic vintage and antique cameos can be viewed and purchased at Ruby Lane.  They have a price range of under $ 25 all the way to over $5000.  The latter being carved from a diamond.  WOW!

Website Review of Step by Step as Resource

     I recently discovered a website with a lot of articles based on several different categories.  I zoned in on the jewelry articles of course, for example "How to Identify Bakelite."  I was also drawn to the article "How to Identify Vintage Costume Jewelry."
     There were a lot more articles of interest in the jewelry category, "How to Tell Real Gold From Fake", or "How to Become a Jewelry Maker."  How to Grade Pearls or How to Buy Jewelry Repair Tools and many, many, many,  more articles about jewelry, jewelry making, jewelry storing, metals, gemstones and on and on...
     Oh, did I forget to tell you the name of the website?  Of course I did.  If you have clicked on any of the links above you probably already know it.  But, just in case you have not went there yet, let me just say this.  It's worth a click.  The amount of information on this one website is tremendous.  Here is a link to their category page.
     The extensive list of categories will leave you breathless, and you don't even have to climb any stairs to get to it.  If you still haven't indulged by clicking a link, here it is, your final link, which just happens to be the title of the website.  It's a very appropriate title because that's exactly what each and every article will explain to the reader; how to do things, "Step by Step".
     Go ahead click on it, you won't be sorry.
     Website Rated: 

6 Clues That Help Date Your Jewelry

1. Older brooches usually have smooth backs, not patterned ones.
2. Copyright symbols appear on jewelry made from about 1955 on, not before.
3. Aurora borealis rhinestones did not appear until the mid 50's.
4. Quality vintage rhinestone pieces are usually prong-set.
5. Authentic vintage jewelry should show minor signs of wear, particularly in the clasp area. But maybe not if it was stashed away in some one's jewelry box.  
6. An older piece, more often than not, will have significant weight.

     Have you ever wondered what they are  talking about when they say "Juliana" jewelry?  Well, Juliana jewelry was made for a relatively brief time in the 60's by DeLizza & Elster.  It sold with paper hang tags and was unmarked.  There are a few extremely recognizable pieces out there.  I'm talking about the really colorful, beautiful "Easter egg" types.  Aside from those, identification is largely based on speculation.

Estate Jewelry - second hand, garage sale, auction, high-end, Contemporary-era, not very old.

Vintage Jewelry - 20 to 30 years old, 1980's and earlier

eras  - Modern, Mid Century Modern, Retro, Art Deco.

Antique Jewelry - 100 years old or older, 1920's are now considered antique.

eras - Art Deco, Edwardian, Art Nouveau, Victorian, Georgian and earlier.

     

     A lot of descriptions of jewelry will list, for example, a piece as Art Deco style.  Don't let this confuse you into thinking this is an older piece.  They are talking about the "style" being copied from the era.  In other words it looks like an actual Art Deco piece but it's not.  This is done with all types of jewelry and any era.

     Another deception quite often found in jewelry descriptions is easily discovered when the use of "like" is included.  For example, "diamond like."  If you pay attention you will discover others.  It's meant to fool you into believing it's the real thing.  Shame on them.  But now you know and I have faith that you will make the right choice.  Don't get me wrong, there is beauty in the costume jewelry as well. The vintage jewelry has proved this to be true.  If you are going to pay the price for authentic, you should get the "real" thing and not a fake, "style" or "likeness."  I'm sure you agree.

Crafting With Jewelry

Tucked away you've got a very old piece of jewelry your very old aunt willed to you. Perhaps you have a beautiful antique pin you cherish but would never wear.  Or what about that cameo you bought on a whim, while vacationing overseas, thinking it would make a wonderful souvenir.

Or maybe you've got a lot of award pins from various accomplishments throughout the years.  You can't bear tossing out all those memories.

My point is turn them into a charming work of art.  Display them in a frame prominently placed on your wall in your home.  The bedroom or maybe a bathroom would be the perfect place for this type of decor.

Get an appropriate size frame for your piece.  Remove the glass and glue black velvet (or whatever color scheme that works ) to the back where the picture would be.  Attach the item/s of choice centered on the black velvet and hang the frame.  Painting the frame a different color is certainly an option.

I have seen some beautiful Christmas trees made with jewelry charms as ornaments hanging from the tree.  You can also find framed Christmas trees made entirely of vintage jewelry pieces.

And using the frame as a way to store your everyday wearable jewelry is common place too.

There are many items, just like these pictured, for sale on E-bay or Etsy.  Better yet create your very own.  I know I'm feeling inspired now.



One more idea is to use a frame, insert your very own patterned or solid piece of paper, replace glass.  Lay flat on vanity for a perfume bottle tray, etc.

I'd love to hear some more ideas for crafting with jewelry.  Just leave a comment to share your ideas.